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Alpacas have been bred in South America for thousands of years. Also known as "The Fiber of the Gods", Alpaca was used to make clothing for royalty (like sheep wool)..

Parsi Ghara Embrodriery

I never had a fascination for embroidered sarees; until I saw Ashdeen's Parsi Ghara sarees recently at an exhibition!

So we know they came from Persia, and settled in Gujarat for thousands of years, but had their religious and ethnic identity intact! When the British came and the ports of Gujarat and Bombay developed, these boat builders and traders amassed huge fortunes.

The influence of British reflected in the pastel colours of their sarees. Though they wore their sarees like Gujarati style draping, their wedding sarees took to the influence of lace and Broderie anglaise (English embroidery - a whitework needlework technique of 19th century incorporating features of embroidery, cutwork and needle lace associated with England).

Parsi trade was traditionally with China, and so they wore the gauze or embroidered satin sarees on special occasions. The heavier crepe de chine was called Ghara, and the Chinese derived silk satin was called Gaj, commonly worn in Gujarat (gajji silk). Since Chinese looms were only two thirds of Indian Saree width, the Parsi sarees made of Chinese woven fabrics has a lengthwise seam added to the fabric and were called "do-patti", two strip saris.

All the silks embroidered in China had the traditional oriental motifs - Flowers, leaves, birds, animals, people in Chinese dress etc,.but very detailed and with rich effects!

Other traditional Parsi saris included the satin bandhanis from kutch. They also did gold badla embroidery in chiffons, sometimes with chinese embroidery, satin bands or with sequin embroidery! Till 1950 Chinese peddlers would visit the wealthy Parsi families in Bombay and sell such embroideries, Ghara and Gajji fabrics to them. The interesting fact is that the Chinese embroidery were never adapted mainstream in India.

One Parsi fabric which has become an exclusive Indian textile is Tanchoi. The Tanchois were imported from China until the Chhoi brothers learned the weaving techniques and set up shop in Surat ( the Parsi owned weaving concerns were pushed out of business by Banaras weavers who undercut their prices in early 1950s)!

Chettinadu Splendour

What started off as just as a textile activity session with Meyammai Aachi, has now triggered varied interests and been an eye-opener for me personally. I have tried to capture and document key points discussed with her pre-meeting and the session yesterday, and added my thoughts too.

I was in awe listening to the stories of the “Nattukottai chettiars” or the “Nagarathars” as they are called in our Tamil heartland.  What Marwari businessmen are to the north and Parsis to the west, the Nagarathars are to the south! A conservative community of traders and financiers with traditions centuries old, their risk taking aptitude, knowledge of numbers and integrity made them leading personalities in the global business world..

Meyammai Aachi speaks with such clarity and pride; the initial connect between us is more on spirituality, temples, sarees and jewellery, in that order! And it’s a joy to listen to her stories, and one hour passed away when we drifted away from the “table of contents” for the presentation – to the saints of Chettinadu – Pattinathar and Karaikal Ammaiyar..

Legend is that the Chettiar clan originally migrated from Kancheepuram to the famous Chola port city in the South – “Kaviri Poom Pattinam” or “Poompuhar”. This famous city was the capital of the most famous early Chola king – Karikal Cholan; who built the Grand Anicut for the river Kaveri. He is the legendary king in all our “Sangam” literature – From Pattinapalai to Purananutrupadai; 

One of the 5 great epics of tamil literature, Silapathigaram starts off describing this city, its two distinct districts called “Pattinapakkam” and “Maruvurpakkam” – Kaveri after sacrificing its natural resources to the South of India, joins the sea in Kaviri Poom Pattinam. The literature describes thousands of war ships stalled at this port, how its affluent traders called Chettiars manned the Chola fleets which sailed across kingdoms in east.

The great ruler Rajendra Chola I, who is the favourite hero of Dr. Chitra Madhavan was called “Kadram Kondan” the ruler who conquered Kedah (west coast of Malaya) known as Kadaram in Tamil (Thanks to your inspiring lectures lady  on Cholas, and we could see their influence as far as in Cambodia temples too!) – And the latter of the five epics “Manimegalai” describes how Kaviri Poom pattinam had submerged in the sea due to Tsunami!

Ok, coming back to our topic - the Nagarathars were traders of salt, rice initially – and crossed overseas to establish local finance trading and lending, and specialized in gem trading. We get to know that they traded pearls from Gulf of mannar, diamonds from Golconda and Corals. They were the financial experts to the Chola Monarchs; they were the ones who had the honour of crowing the Chola Kings. Later on their services were required by Pandya Kings too, and so they migrated to Pandiya Nadu in 13th Century. 

Chettinadu is the cluster of these 75 villages and towns  - And their forefathers established 9 temples, and each Chettiar is a born member of this nine temple clans, which are like 9 Gothrams.

The nine temples of the Nagarathar are Ilayathangudi, Mathur, Vairavanpatti, Iranyanur, Pillayarpatti, Nemam, Ilupakudi, Soorakudi and Velangudi.

Their financial acumen made them as Zamindars and Paalayakarars, and British expansionism led them in to Ceylon in 1796 and Burma in 1824. Calcutta was the base for anyone landing from Burma, so you can still find Nagarathar Choultries there. 

The men travelled overseas, like bachelors, leaving their families behind – No wonder the Aachis were the strong women who single handedly brought up their children, had the same financial acumen as their men, and made the chettiars build rich mansions back in Chettinadu! And when Meyammai Aachi described the reason behind these family traditions – of how the homes were embellished and enriched with Italian marbles, Burma teak, Czech Cystals, and  in these homes were stored the gold and diamonds, Burma rubies, which was unstintingly given to each girl child as much as for adornment as for her family security!

The clan members or “Pangalis” are close knit and the wedding will happen only if the uncles are there; the Nagarathar’s unity was their greatest strength, which established the huge joint family get togethers – and that became the basis for the reputation of their hospitality, connoisseurs of exceptional cuisine. And finally contribute back to religious activities, education and a lot more!

In Chennai still you can see a street named “Coral Merchant street’ locally known as “Pavazhakara Street”, which is one of the oldest and historical in Geroge town and the Nagarathar Choulatries are still there. The Nagarathars gave the country Indian Overseas Bank, Indian Bank, Bank of Madura, as also United India Insurance.

Chettinadu is MORE than just tasty cuisines, and bright coloured sarees.. So more in my next post..