15 December 2014

Sri Vidyashankara Temple, Sringeri

This awesome temple is under the care of the Archaeological Survey of India owing to its architectural marvel.  A unique monument combining Hoysala (Chalukya) and Dravidian architecture styles in 1338 AD.
 
Elliptical in shape, this stands on a plinth and commands a magnificent view! This temple is a veritable store house of sculpture both inside and outside. 

VidyAshankara temple is a monument to jagadguru VidyA TIrtha, who entered into "lambika yoga sajIva Samadhi"(consciously entering into meditation to cast off the body) at the temple site. This 14th century temple is hailed as ‘poetry in stone'.
 
Sringeri is one of the mutts Adi Shanakara established in 8th centrury AD. The construction of the this temple is in 14th century, by Vidyaranya who was instrumental in the rise of Vijayanagar empire. The 12 pillars inside the temple has 12 zodiacal pillars called "Rashi Sthambas" and the sun beam illuminates only one pillar each month, entering the temple!
 
The outside sculpture of this temple features 61 images of various scenes from the puranas. 
 
 
 

The Dasavatharam is depicted on both sides.

The one above depicts the story of the Sage Markendaya, saved from Yama, by Lord Shiva as Kalasamhara Moorthy

 
 
What attention to detail.. The left panel depicting the "Kama Thaganam" and the right depicting the "Tripura Samharam" of Lord Shiva!
 
 
 

09 December 2014

Koyambedu Vaikuntha Perumal Temple & Kurungaleeswarar temple

Koyam means horse in Sanskrit, and this place is associated with lava and kusa, sons of Rama.
 

 
Vaikunta perumal temple has idols of Rama in Maravuri and a pregnant Seetha, Sage valmiki with the two little boys.
 
Opposite to this temple is the kurugaleeswarar temple aka kuchalavapureerswarar- the boys worshipped shiva here, and so the lingam is also small as the name Kurungalerswarar denotes.
 
The unique significance of this temple is that both ambal and shiva face North, ambal sannidhi is on the right side to Shiva which is supposed to be powerful. In the outer prakaram of shiva, there is an idol of surya.
 
Other significance - Dakshinamoorthy (instead of lingotbhavar) behind the shiva sannidhi on the outer wall, Gnana Saraswathi without a veena, and a Vishnu Durga with shankuchakram
The dashavataram depicted in the gopuram at Vaikunta perumal Kovil

Thirumoolar

திருமூலர் அவரது பாடலில் " யாவர்க்குமாம் இறைவருக்கொரு பச்சிலை, யாவர்க்குமாம் பசுவுக்கொரு வாயுரை, யாவர்க்குமாம் உண்ணும்போது ஒருகைப்பிடி, யாவர்க்குமாம் பிறருக்கு இன்சொல்தானே"


இதன் மூலம் இறைவனுக்கு வில்லவ இலையான பச்சையிலையால் அர்ச்சித்து விட்டு, பசுவுக்கு ஒரு வாய்அளவிலான பசும்புல்லும், தான் உண்ணும் உணவில் மற்ற வர்களுக்கு ஒரு கைப்பிடி உணவும் வழங்குங்கள். இதுவும் முடியாத போது தாங்கள் பேசும் பேச்சிலாவது பிறரிடம் அன்பாக பேசுங்கள் என்ற கருத்தை வலியுறுத்திகறார்!

Kapaleeshwarar Kovil

Excerpts from the  Parthasarathy Mudaliar Endowment lecture by Chitra Madhavan on Kapaleeshwarar kovil. Mudaliar was very closely associated with this temple and was instrumental in construction of idols/figures in the temple gopuram. He's never missed a pradosham pooja at this temple, and his final days were at Varanasi, where he did pooja for 45 days and then attained jala samadhi in the Ganges!
 
 
 The temple's name is derived from the words kapalam (head) and "eeshwarar" - when Shiva plucked one head of Brahma. Later on Brahma did a penance and installed this lingam to please Shiva. And the other name with regard to Karpagambal is that Parvati is like the wish yielding Karpaga Tharu; and once when Parvati was not attentive to Shiva's upadesam and watching a dancing peacok, she was cursed to turn in a peacock and was instructed to worship Shiva to regain her normal form. The north east corner of the temple's block is the "Punnai Vana Nathar" shrine and we can see a representation of this legend on stone in a small Shrine under a Punnai tree (Sthala Vriksha).
 
Thiruvotriyur was a prime "Kapalika" cult town in earlier years - (The Kāpālika tradition practices the tantric form of Shaivism and these skull men carried a cranium begging bowl), and this cult might have had an influence on naming of this temple too.
 
Thiru Mayilai has been mentioned by Ptolemy, the Greek traveller as Millarpha and the seaport recorded as Mylar farm and did you know that its the birth place of Tiruvalluvar too? - The earliest Saivite saints of 7th Century, Thiru Gnana sambandar and Appar and two prominent Alwars (Peyazhwar and Thirumazhisai alwar) have all mentioned about the temple/place in their works.
 
One interesting observation was that the existing structure is not the original temple - The original 8th century shiva temple built by the pallavas was along the sea coast, referred from the hymns of Sambandar. Later on they say it was destroyed by the Portuguese and in that place they built the santhome church. The present temple was relocated before 350-400 years ago.
 
Amazing facts
 
  1. The specialty of this temple is that it has 2 Dwajasthambams! - apart from a dwajasthambam in front of the main deity, there is one more in front of the Singaravelan sannadhi too.
  2.  Vishnu Sharma taught Panchatantra to King Amarashakthi's sons (who is referred to as the king of Mylapore)
  3.  The height of the sanctum of Singaravelar is a little higher than Kapaleeshwar, and the murugan sannidhi has a small opening directly. This seconds the fact that the relocation of the Kapaleeshwarar temple next to this
  4.  The East Gopuram base is entirely Granite and the upper part is brick and stuttco, follows vijayanagar architecture and resembles Meenakshi amman temple gopuram.
  5.  The notable sculptures in the temple gopuram include various kshetra natarajas, Heramba Ganapathy (riding a lion with multiple heads), Sage Bringhi with 3 legs, Ravana lifting Mount Kailash, Various roopams of Dakshinamurthy, Meenakshi Sundareshwar wedding, Kannapa nayanar story, Chandikeswarar story (who is the body guard of shiva and the head of his Ganas).
  6.  In the Thirugnana sambandar shrine near the Dwajasthambam you can see his idol along with Poompavai. Sivanesa Chettiar, Poompavai's father wanted to get her married to Sambandar, but before he arrives, she dies. Her ashes are in the urn, during the 13 day period and Sambandar sings a pathigam to redeem her life back.
  7.  Vaayila Nayanar (one who cant speak) - another saivite saint who built a golden temple for shiva in his heart to perform pooja, attained salvation here..

Kanyakumari Amman & Soundaryalahiri

 
 
Did you know that the monumental work of "Soundaryalahari" was composed by Adi Sankara at Kanyakumari?
 
The life-like image of Devi Kanyakumari with a smiling face is a combination of innocence, purity and beauty. Here Devi who stands alone continues her eternal penance and radiates sanctity all around. The lines in Soundaryalahari which read "O Goddess Jagadambal, you have given me the faculty of speech. I compose this poem in your praise and offer it to you"
 
The first part of 41 verses called `Aanandalahari' is regarded a `Mantra Sastra' describing the subtle forms of Devi and mode of worship of the Divine Mother;The remaining 59 verses contain an exquisite portrayal of the physical form of Devi from head to foot ending with a prayer for Her grace.
 
Adi Sankara exclaims, "O Mother your right eye being the Sun creates day and your left eye being the Moon creates night". The rising Sun and the setting Sun can only be seen at Kanyakumari simultaneously and not elsewhere. (And Chitra Pournami is special)
 
As a mark of his visit, a shrine of Adi Sankara was erected between the temple of Devi and the bathing ghat at the tapering end of Kanyakumari. There is an arch nearly 30 feet height in front of the shrine and on the top of the arch an image of Dakshinamurty is fixed; The main shrine contains the marble image of Adi Sankara with his four disciples. The holy feet of Sankara are also enshrined separately in the eastern side of the main shrine.
 
 

Amazing facts about Tirumala Deity

 
 
 Excerpts from Srivari Brahmotsavam publication of The Hindu..
  1. The first reference to the heavenly abode of Lord Venkateshwara dates back to 2nd century in the Silappathikaram
  2. Why is the annual festival called Brahmotsavam? - Lord Brahma himself descends on Tirumala to conduct the festival every year - A small blank chariot "Brahma ratham" moves ahead of the processions during the utsavam.
  3. The day before the Brahmotsavam, the commander in chief of the Lord's army - Sri Vishwaksena goes around the temple town supervising the arrangments, and in the course of his inspection he collects the sacred earth "Mritsangrahanam" required for the yagasala inside the temple.
  4. On the 6th night of the Brahmotsavam - only women are allowed to pull the swarna ratham!
  5. The Brahmotsavam begins with Dwajarohanam when the sacred yellow flag with imprint of Lord Garuda is ceremoniously hoisled atop the dwajastahmabam
  6. What are the seven hills? - Seshadri, Neeladri, Garudadri, Vrishabadri, Anjanadri, Narayandri and Venkatadri - and the temple is located on the seventh peak, Venkatadri,thus earning its name, Thiru Vengadam!
  7. It is believed that Lord Mahavishnu directly descended and self-manifested himself(swayambu) to the Tirumala hills from his heavenly abode of Vaikuntham. The sanctum sanctorum which houses this awe inspiring idol is called Ananda Nilayam.
  8. The Murthy stands directly beneath the Anandha Nilayam Vimanam and at any point of time the deity is decorated with no leass than 2 quintals of precious ornaments!

Thiruneer Malai

From Chitra Madhavan's lecture on Temples around Chennai : Thiru Neer Malai

அன்றாயர் குலக்கொடி யோடனிமா மலர் மங்கை யொடளப்பளாவி அவுணர்க் கென்றானு மிரக்க மில்லாதவனுக் குறையு மிடமாவது, இரும்பொழில் சூழ் நன்றாய புனல் நறையூர் திருவாலி குடந்தை தடந்திகழ் கோவல் நகர் நின்றானிருந்தான் கிடந்தான் நடந்தாற் கிடம் மாமலையாவது நீர்மலையே.

A glimpse of 2000 year old temple where The Lord appears in four forms - ...

1. In the foot hill as "Neer Vanna Perumal" (Rama) like Nachiyal Kovil
2. On the top of the hill as "Ranganathar, Trivikrama and Shantha Narasimhar" - Compared by Thirumangai Azhwar as - Ranganathar as in Sarngapani temple, Narasimhar as in Thiruvali Thiru Nagari (Near Sirkazhi) and Trivikrama as in Thiru Kovilur!

Interesting facts about the temple

- You can see the idol of Thirumangai Azhwar and his wife Kumudavalli
- Dwajastambam not alinged to the Sanctum
- Valmiki was blessed with Rama Darshan alongwith Seetha, Lakshmanan, Bharatha Satrugunan
- Ranganthar is four- armed (unlike Srirangam where he has 2 hands)

What you should not miss in this temple

- The Vijayanagar architecture outside and Chola architecutre inside
- The fluted pillar and the amazing Vijayanagar Mandapam on the top of the hill

What you should pray for?

In Hinduism, prayer is another form of positive thinking! Instead of "வேண்டாம்" one should pray for "வேண்டும்" -


This song is just one example from Vallalar's தெய்வ மணி மாலை, sung by him at Kandakottam temple at the age of 9 years!

Skanda Puranam..

During Skanda Shashti its auspicious to listen to "Skanda Puranam" - Skanda Puranam in Sanskrit is one of the largest puranams and Kachiappa Devar composed this in Tamil. He was an archakar at Kumarakottam temple at Kanchi and the starting words of Kandapuranam in tamil was initiated by Lord Muruga himself! (‘திகட சக்கர’). Everyday he composed 100 songs and used to leave the manuscripts at his feet, and Murugan used to review it and made corrections!

 Very powerful lyrics, here are some amazing poems. The first one gives a graphical description of how Murugan's avatharam came to be :

"அருவமும் உருவமாகி அனாதியாய்ப் பலவாயொன்றாய்
பிரமமாய் நின்றசோதிப் பிழம்பதோர் மேனியாகிக்
கருணை கூர் முகங்களாறும் கரங்கள் பன்னிரண்டுங் கொண்டே
ஒருதிரு முருகன் வந்தாங்கு உதித்தனன் உலகமுய்ய"

"மறைகளின் முடிவால் வாக்கால் மனத்தினால் அளக்கொணாமல்
நிறைவுடன் யாண்டு மாகி நின்றிடும் நிமல மூர்த்தி
அறிமுக வுருவாய்த் தோன்றி அருளோடு சரவணத்தில்
வெறிகமழ் கமலப் போதில் வீற்றிருந் தருளினானே "

"ஏலவார்குழல் இறைவிக்கும் எம்பிரான் தனக்கும்
பாலனாகும் குமரவேள் நடுவுறும் பான்மை
ஞாலமேல் உறும் இரவோடு பகலுக்கும்
மாலையான தொன்று அழிவின்றி நிற்குமாறெங்கும்"

இவ்வண்ணம் பாலகனாய்த் தோன்றிய முருகனை இறைவனும் இறைவியும் எடுத்துப் பாலூட்டித் தம்பக்கத்தில் இருத்தினார்கள். அவ்வண்ணம் எழுந்தருளிய மூர்த்தமே சோமஸ்கந்த மூர்த்தமாக அமைந்துள்ளது.

தெய்வீகச் சிறப்புடன் விளங்கும் முருகப் பெருமான் இறைவனிடமும் இறைவியிடமும் தலைமைத்துவத்தைப் பெற்று ஞான சக்தியாகிய வேற்படைக் கலத்தையும் அம்பிகையிடம் பெற்று சூரனை வதம் செய்து அருளினார்.

“முருகப்பெருமானின் திருவரலாறாகிய கந்தபுராணத்தைக் காதலுடன் இப்புவியில் படிப்போர், கேட்போர், நினைப்போர் யாவரும் இந்திரனைப் போலத் தலைமைத்துவமும் இன்பமும் மிக்க வாழ்வை வாழ்ந்து இறுதியில் பரமானந்த நிலையாகிய சிவபதப் பேறும் பெறுவர்

Nakkerar's vision of Murugan in Tiru-Ceer-Alaivai

How does Lord Muruga with his six faces and twelve hands as Shanmukha graces Tiru-Ceer-Alaivai ('sacred place of the everlasting waves') or Tiruchendur.?

 In his classic poem Tiru-murugarrupatai, Nakkeerar describes the coming in of Muruga borne by "Pinnimukam" the celestial elephant and of the special attributes of his faces and arms.
 


 Verses 78-88....
" Muruga comes "borne aloft on elephant, swiftly striding, irresistible as death, fleet as the risen wind, on whose brow, scarred deep with sharp goad, unfading wreaths and medals toss, and bells of alternate peal ring on either side, beauteous gems of changing sheen flash like lightning on His crown, five shapes in one and wrought consummately; bright pendant ear-rings of varied work shine like stars clinging around the moon, shedder of light on far lands."

Tiruchendur Vibuthi

This is the slokam in Subrahmanya Bhujangam highligting the miraculous healing power of Tiruchendur PanneerPatra Vibuthi.

"அபஸ்மார குஷ்டக்ஷ்யார்ச ப்ரமேஹ...
ஜ்வரோந்மாத குல்மாதிரோகா மஹாந் தஹ
பிசாசஸ்ச சர்வே பவத் பத்ரபூதிம்
விலோக்ய க்ஷணாத் தாரகாரே த்ரவந்தே"

"You are the destroyer of Tarakasura! Various diseases that afflict humans like epilepsy, leprosy, tuberculosis, lunacy and evil spirits vanish the moment one receives the sacred ash kept on the paneer leaf."

The panneer leaf enhances the fragrance of Tiruchendur vibhuti. No matter what contributes, it is a fact that Tiruchendur vibhuti has the fragrance of divine grace!

It is said the 4 vedas or scriptures stood as panneer trees bearing testimony of Lord Murugan's victory over Surapadman. Vibhuti contained in those leaves has miraculous healing power. The veins running across the leaves remind us of Lord Murugan's twelve hands!

Abhinav Gupthar, who lost in the argument with Adi Sanakara cast a black magic spell on Adi Sankara which caused a chronic disease. Adi Sankara was staying in Gokarna in north Karnataka at that time. Lord Siva of Gokarna appeared in his dream and instructed him to go to Tiruchendur, the holy abode of His son Lord Muruga and get rid of his disease.

On reaching Chendur he took a dip in the sea and proceeded towards the shrine of Chenthilandavan. Early in the dawn, Shankar saw the serpent Adiseshan crawling towards the sanctum. At the same time he was blessed with the holy vision and words gushed out extemporaneously in bhujanga metre. In Sanskrit 'bhujanga' means snake. Bhujanga metre suggests a snake gliding along.
He smeared his body with the patra bhuti prasadam and was soon cured of his disease.

Arunagirinathar, who has also sung vibhuti's glory tells us how to wear the holy Ash or the Vibuthi:

"ஆறுமுகம் ஆறுமுகம் ஆறுமுகம்
ஆறுமுகம் ஆறுமுகம் ஆறுமுகம் என்றுபூதி
ஆகமணி மாதவர்கள் பாதமலர் சூடும் அடியார்கள்
பதமே துணையதென்று..."

Recite 'Arumugam' six times and apply the holy ash on your bodies and do a namaskaram humbly at the lotus feet of the great saints!
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Skanda Shashti Kavacham

 
The simple and heart touching, yet very powerful tamil verses composed by Bala Deva Rayar Swamigal; and recited by Sulamangalam Sisters will make a day complete for anyone. The objective of the slokam is simple yet profound - "அமர ரிடர்தீர அமரம் புரிந்த குமரனடி நெஞ்சே குறி". To attain the Lord's blessings to overcome all problems!

Why the name Shashti Kavacham? -

Kavacham means an armour, armour against all doshams, evils and difficulties. Shashti is associated with the No. 6 - The slokam starts off with "சஷ்டியை நோக்க".

Shashti is the 6th day after amavasya/pournami and in astrology the sixth position denotes ரோகம், கடன், விரோதம், சத்ரு and Chevvai is the deity. So no wonder Murugan is associated with all related to 6 - அவருக்கு உகந்த நாள் சஷ்டி, சஷ்டி என்றால் ஆறு, முருகனுக்கோ ஆறு முகங்கள், ச ர வ ண ப வ என்று ஆறு அட்சரம், ஆறு படை வீடுகள், ஆறு கார்த்திகைப் பெண்ணால் வளர்க்கப்பட்டவர். கந்த சஷ்டி கவசம் நம்மைத் தீமைகளிலிருந்தும் கஷ்டத்திலிருந்த்தும் காபாற்றுகிறது.

Sri Devaraya Swamigal in fact wrote 6 'kandha sashti kavasams', one for each padaiveedu of Lord Muruga. The one we sing now is the one for Tiruchendur which starts with "சஷ்டியை நோக்க சரவண பவனார்", which has 270 lines.

The first 1-32 verses welcomes Muruga starting off with பாதம் இரண்டில் பண்மணிச் சலங்கை கீதம் பாட கிண்கிணியாட.. and goes to call Murugan as ஆறுமுகம் படைத்த ஐயா வருக, நீறிடும் வேலவன் நித்தம் வருக
சிரகிரி வேலவன் சீக்கிரம் வருக!, சரவண பவனார் சடுதியில் வருக

From 33-46 lines, he gives a head to toe description of the beautiful Murugan

ஆறு முகமும் அணிமுடி ஆறும், நீறிடு நெற்றியில் நீண்ட புருவமும் பன்னிரு கண்ணும் பவளச்செவ் வாயும், நன்னெறி நெற்றியில் நவமணிச் சுட்டியும்

and asks him to bless him and protect him from "head to toe".

நாசிகளி ரண்டும் நல்வேல் காக்க, பேசிய வாய்தனைப் பெருவேல் காக்க, முப்பத் திருபல் முனைவேல் காக்க, செப்பிய நாவைச் செவ்வேல் காக்க

The rest of the verses he chart out entire list of fear, diseases and poisonous animals and requests the Lord to save us!

"காக்க காக்க கனகவேல் காக்க, நோக்க நோக்க நொடியில் நோக்க, தாக்க தாக்க தடையறக் தாக்க, கொள்ளிவாய்ப் பேய்களும், குறளைப் பேய்களும், பெண்களைத் தொடரும் பிரமராட் சதரும்
அடியனைக் கண்டால் அலறிக் கலங்கிட
இரிசு காட்டேரி இத்துன்ப சேனையும்
எல்லிலும் இருட்டிலும் எதிர்ப்படும் அண்ணரும்

புலியும் நரியும் புன்னரி நாயும்
எலியும் கரடியும் இனித் தொடர்ந் தோட
தேளும் பாம்பும் செய்யான் பூரான்
கடிவிட விஷங்கள் கடித்துய ரங்கம்

ஏறிய விஷங்கள் எளிதினில் இறங்க
ஒளிப்புஞ் சுளுக்கும் ஒருதலை நோயும்
வாதஞ் சயித்தியம் வலிப்புப் பித்தம்
குலைசயங் குன்மம் சொக்குச் சிரங்கு"

The Pala shruthi mentions that

கந்தர் சஷ்டி கவசம் விரும்பிய
பாலன் தேவ ராயன் பகர்ந்ததைக்
காலையில் மாலையில் கருத்துடன் நாளும்
ஆசா ரத்துடன் அங்கந் துலக்கி

நேசமுடன் ஒரு நினைவது வாகிக்
கந்தர் சஷ்டிக் கவசம் இதனைச்
சிந்தை கலங்காது தியானிப் பவர்கள்
ஒருநாள் முப்பத் தாறுருக் கொண்டு
ஓதியே செபித்து உகந்துநீ றணிய

அஷ்டதிக் குள்ளோர் அடங்கிலும் வசமாய்த்
திசைமன்ன ரெண்மர் சேர்ந்தங்கு அருளுவர்
மற்றவ ரல்லாம் வந்து வணங்குவர்

நவகோள் மகிழ்ந்து நன்மை யளித்திடும்
நவமதனெனவும் நல்லெழில் பெறுவர்

இதைப் படித்தால் வறுமை ஓடிவிடும் நவகிரஹங்களும் நமக்குத் துணை இருப்பார்கள் சத்ருக்கள் மனம் மாறி விடுவார்கள் முகத்தில் தெய்வீக ஒளி வீசும்

Shankara Bhagavathpadal

Shankara Bhagavad Padal holds a special place in our hearts and minds for the simple reason his slokams are so inspiring, has incisive analysis and clarity of expression - His devotion and poetic expressions leaves one in awe and reverence. What makes him more endearing is the amazing sense of empathy for lesser mortals like us, and his capacity to identify himself with the emotional psyche of a ...woman, be it his own mother or that Universal Mother!



Few of Shankara's slokams are place related -

Sivananda Lahiri, Subhramanya Bhujagam, and the lesser known "Vishnu Pathathi Keshanta Stotram". While Sivananda Lahiri was composed in Sri Sailam, Bhujangam was extempore pouring when he meditated upon Sri Subramanya at Tiruchendur, the "Vishnu Pathathi Keshanta Stotram" was recited when Sri Sankara visited Tirupathi - Like the 100th daskam of Narayaneeyam, this slokam describes the Lord from his foot to the head!

(Check out this amazing link to read the entire slokam @ http://www.slideshare.net/pamaran/01-vishnu-pathadhi)

Other slokams are incident related -

Kanaka Dhara Stotram was recited when Shankara was touched by the poor lady's gesture who offered a gooseberry for alms, and the 21 mellifluous hymns on Goddess Lakshmi poured golden goose berries as rain to the poor woman’s house.

Lakshmi-Narasimha Stotram - Recited when Shankara was about to be sacrificed by a Kapalika, the god Narasimha appeared to save Shankara in response to Padmapada's prayer to him.

Manisha Panchakam - While on his way to the Vishwanath Temple, Shankara came upon an untouchable accompanied by four dogs. When asked to move aside by Shankara's disciples, the untouchable replied: "Do you wish that I move my ever lasting Atman ("the Self"), or this body made of flesh?" Realizing that the untouchable was none other than god Shiva himself, and his dogs the four Vedas, Shankara prostrated himself before him, composing five shlokas known as Manisha Panchakam

Chidambaram Thirupugazh

If you mention "Kovil" it simply denotes Chidambaram; while you enjoy the Ananda dhandavam of Natrajar, and the magnificent Sivagami amman in the "Manonmani" swaroopam at Chidambaram, the Lord of Tirupugazh, is sung in 68 songs out of 1324 songs of Arunagirinathar.
 



 In the inner praharam of Natarajar Sannadhi, there is a separate shrine for Murugan as Muthukumara swamy. And there is a Palani Dhandayudapani near the Natrajar Kodimaram as well. The one you see in the picture is the inner wall of Mela Gopuram - Velayuda Moorthy, with Arumugam and 12 arms and a victorious smile!

For each and every sculpture of Murugan @ Chidambaram, Arunagirinathar has sung a Tirupugazh! What's interesting is the fact that he symbolizes Lord Nataraja as Murugan himself.. due to the fact that Lord Natraja himself gave darshan as Murugan..
 
The very first song says "கனகசபை மேவு மெனதுகுரு நாத கருணைமுரு கேசப் ...... பெருமாள்காண்" which means "பொன்னம்பலமாகிய சிதம்பரத்தில் நடனம் செய்யும் எனது குருநாதராகிய கருணை நிறைந்தமுருகேசப் பெருமாள் நீதான்"

Tirusulanathar Temple

Take the opposite road to Airport and cross the electric train gate, drive about 2 kms.. And you will land up in this 1200 year chola temple -

 
 
 
Things to see and note in this temple - The Gaja Brishtam chola architecture of the inner sanctum, huge shivalingam with Soundarvalli ambal doing siva pooja, and outside there is one more sannidhanam for Tripurasundari amman.
 
 
 
Unique Deva Koshtam on the inner wall - Naga Yagnopaveedha Ganapathi (one who wears snake as his poonal), Dakshinamoorthy in Veerasana posture, Lingotbhavar, an amazing standing Brahma and Vishnu Durgai.. Sthala Vruksham is "Mara Malli" - looks like a small plant next to the huge arasa maram..

SB Coffee @ RK Salai

Starbucks may come, or go. Saravana bhavan might have changed hands or not.

For us a stimulating caffeine for the day, from the expert, keeps us going!


Ravi the cheerful person at SB RK Salai branch, whom we have seen him for over 15 years. Starts off with "Good morning Eppadi irukeenga".. And then confirms how you want your coffee, and goes on meticulously.

Right from the way he washes the ever silver tumblers with hot boiling water and makes our brew. Even if 2 cups of coffee costs Rs.60/-, coffee is all about people, end of the day! Long live Ravi..

Boat Mail

I was enquiring for a cab for a weekend travel and a driver from a company called "Boatmail Travels" contacted - I enquired why it was called Boat mail/ (Summa padagu madiri Karo?)
 
He said that "Boatmail" was a historical train where a person can buy one ticket from Egmore to Colombo - and travel by train and boat with the same ticket!
 
The railway portion was from Madras to Tuticorin (22 hrs) and passengers embarked on a steamer to Colombo in ceylon! After the Pamban bridge ...was built in 1914, the train's route changed and went from Madras to Dhanushkodi.
 
A much shorter ferry service then took the passengers to Talaimannar in Ceylon, from where another train went to Colombo. The 35-kilometre long ferry journey was considerably shorter than the 270-kilometre long Tuticorin-Colombo route. The crossing used to take 1½ hours.
 
The South Indian Railway opened the Indo-Ceylon rail connection basically for movement of Indian labour to work in their plantations; While Ceylon constructed 67 mile branch railway track from Madawchiya - Talaimannar, the Indians constructed track from Madurai - Mandapam across a bypass bridge to Rameshwaram -Dhanushkoti. This started in 1914 (6 yrs after Egmore station was built). The 3 steamers which took passengers 22 miles across the sea were named Curzon, Elgin and Hardinge, named after three viceroys!
 
The 2 countries were only 21 miles apart a narrow strait. So instead of a rail-sea connection, they constructed two piers - One at Dhanushkodi and the other at Talaimannar - Between these two points a steamer service was provided.
 
In 1964, the 6 coach of the Pamban Dhanshkodi passenger with 200+ people was washed away by the sea when a giant 20 foot wave rose from the turbulent sea and smashed the train! The tragedy came to light on Dec 25th (Tsunami -o?)
 
Move over you stupid rajdhanis, Shatabdis, and Durontos!

26 January 2014

The Chola trail..

Dr. Chitra Madhavan's yet another memorable lecture on the Cholas, one the longest ruling dynasties of Tamilnadu, highlighted their lasting legacy in architecture and literature.
 
The Chola dynasty was at the peak of its influence and power during the medieval period  of the monarchs Aditya I, Parantaka Chola I, II, Rajaraja Chola I, Rajendra Chola I. These emperors were great leaders and visionaries who conquered not only Tamilnadu, Kerala, Karnataka, Andhra but parts of present day Bengal, and all the way to Srilanka, Malaysia and Indonesia!
 
Chitra Madavan, pointed out the fact that though we establish the Chola connect always to Thanjavur, it was Uraiyur or Kozhiyur (near Trichy) which was the first capital. The capital was shifted to Thanjavur, and later on to Gangaikonda Cholapuram.
Chola seal
 
Just look at the seal, which is a work of art. It is not more than a five rupee coin - It has a tiger, the emblem of the Cholas; an umbrella and two fly-whisks, representing royalty; a swastika and two lamps, auspicious symbols. Besides, it has two vertical fishes (the royal emblem of the Pandyas), a bow (the Cheras' emblem), and the boar (eastern Chalukyas' emblem), signifying that Rajendra Chola had conquered the Pandyas, the Cheras and the eastern Chalukyas !

Glimpses of the notable Cholas included Paranthaka Chola, Raja Raja Chola and Rajendra Chola:

Paranthaka Chola
  •  Paranthaka Chola aka Veeranarayana chola was a successful king who invaded and won the Pandya kingdom - and captured the prestigious "Madurai" and had great glory in announcing that cholas were "Madurain-kondan" (Capturers of Madurai)
  • His amazing contributions to temples included construction of Uthramerur Vaigunda perumal temple, Pulla Mangai Brahma Pureeswarar temple (Pulla mangai is between Kumbakonam-Thanjavur route and one should not miss the "Miniature" sculptures of 6-8 inches height in this temple!
  • He gave a grant to Madhava Bhattar to write a commentery on Rig veda, and was very closely associated with Nathamuni, the 10th century Vaishanavite Guru, who compiled the Divya Prabhandham; Nathamuni collected the hymns, tuned and set the music along with dance steps, which is called the "Araiyar sevai"(அரையர் சேவை) - It is the performed only inside Vaishnavite temples (Srirangam, Alwar Tirunagari, Srivilliputhur and Melkote) centered on ritual singing and enactment of the hymns of Divya Prabhandham.
  • Paratanka Chola was the one who covered the Chidambaram Natarajar Temple with golden roof as so was titled as "Koil pon koorai veiyntha vendan". He also built the Veeranarayana Yeri (Lake) which the present day Veeranam Lake which supplies water to Chennai.
Raja Raja Cholan
·        The next Chola in line was the unequalled monarch, the king of kings - Raja Raja Cholan who conquered Kerala and Srilanka and built the Big Temple aka Brihadeeswarar temple entirely in granite in Thanjavur to commemorate his reign. As we all know this temple is well known for its  huge Nandi and a unique gopuram. In addition, one should not miss the 81 poses of Bharatnatyam carved on the walls of the temple and the chola murals in the museum in the outer prakaram. These Natya Karanas are in the same order as Natya sastra denotes, which have been numbered and preserved still.
·        He was an ardent Saivite and tolerant towards other faiths. He built several temples for Vishnu, and a notable one is the "Apremeya Swamy Temple" in Karnataka where Purandasar is said to have composed the evergreen "Jagadodharana"
·        Raja Raja Chola embarked on a mission to recover the hymns after hearing short excerpts of Devaram - He sought the help of a saint “Nambi Andar Nambi”, who had the divine intervention to find the presence of palm leaf scripts hidden in a chamber in the western corridor of Chidambaram temple. When the Dikshitars opposed this mission saying that Appar, Sundarar and Sambandar can only open the closed chambers - he intervened by consecrating the images of the saint-poets and brought their idols to open these chambers. And salvaged the white ant bitten palm scripts and earned the name of  "Tirumurai Kanda Cholan"
·        Nambi Andar Nambi arranged the hymns of three saint poets Sambandar, Appar and Sundarar as the first seven books - which is the “Devaram" and Manickavasagar's Tirukovayar and Tiruvacakam as the 8th book, the 28 hymns of nine other saints as the 9th book, the Tirumandiram of Tirumular as the 10th book, 40 hymns by 12 other poets as the 10th book, Tirutotanar Tiruvanthathi – (the sacred anthathi of the labours of the 63 nayanar saints) and added his own hymns as the 11th book. The 12th book was Sekkizhar's “Periya Puranam” known as the "Tirumurai", the holy book.
Rajendra Chola :
·        Rajendra Chola, his son, was again a great military ruler and leader. His notable victory was defeating Mahipala, the Pala king of Bengal and Bihar, and to commemorate this victory he built a new capital called Gangaikonda Cholapuram.  He constructed a lake called “Ponneri"- a huge irrigation tank and filled it with water brought from Ganges, a "liquid pillar of victory"!
·        To celebrate his success in the Ganges expedition, this great Chola built the "Gangaikonda Chozhapuram Brihadeeswara temple". Another exquisite temple, a storehouse of art and architecture, built by him was the Darasuram Airavateshwarar temple. The temple vimanam is 85 feet high and the front mandapam has a huge chariot drawn by horses
·        Thanjavur, Gangaikonda Cholapuram and Darasuram temples have a lot of similarities and stand today as the "The Great Living Chola Temples" - as UNESCO World Heritage Sites, as well as temples where daily poojas are still being conducted
·        The largest number of copper plates were issued by Rajendra Chola - The most important among them are the Tiruvalangadu Karanthai and Esalam plates. They provide elaborate details about village layouts, taxation methods, irrigation, Government administration and so on. The Tiruvalangadu copper plates of Rajendra Chola, which records his gift of the Palaiyanur village to the Tiruvalangadu Siva temple
 
·        Other notable temples associated with this great king is Koothanur Saraswathi temple, Thiru Bhuvanai (Near Pondy), Thiru Mukkudal, Srirangam, Chidamabram, Tirupathi and Sri Kalahasti. Within Chennai, notable Chola temples include Triplicane Parthasarathy temple, Tiruvotriyur sivan temple, Marundeeswarar temple, Karaneeswarar and Vrupaksheeswar temple in Mylapore.
Dr. Chitra provided a quick glimpse at the Chola Bronzes, for me that was the highlight of the evening! –jaw dropping  best-known artistic remains, like the Tirvalangadu Bronze! This 114.5-cm bronze icon of Nataraja, discovered 106 years ago, is so graceful and is perfect expression of rhythmic movement, and is the Madras icon! The Indian postal department published a stamp in 1949.


 
Unlike Pandyas who sculpted these stone figures within the temples, Chola bronzes were created as “Utsava Murthys” in temples to participate in daily rituals, processions, and temple festivals. Chola-period bronzes were created using the “lost wax” technique – Every bronze made in this process is unique. The model is first made out of bees wax as a wax model and encased within several layers of clay. The clay mold is baked in a fire, which melts the wax but leaves a perfectly detailed hollow clay mold. The required alloy (Silver, gold or panchalokam) is poured in to the clay mold. After cooling, this mould is broken to yield the final work of art.
Other sculptures :



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

08 January 2014

Ilustrated lecture on temples in and around Chennai

As a part of the Madras week celebrations 2013, Dr. Chitra Madhavan had an illustrated lecture on temples in and around Chennai. 



She is such a treasure house of information on temple architecture, epigraphy and history; She is an M.Phil Indian history, Doctorate in Sanskrit inscriptions of TN, has authored books on “ History and culture of Tamil Nadu” and also a guest faculty in Kalakshretra for the arts management at Dakshin Chitra.

Dr. Chithra highlighted about the great Chola heritage and what they have left for us in Tamilnadu – She mentioned that Cholas have touched nook and corner of villages in TN and of course with significant giant monuments like Thanjavur temple, Darasuram or Gangai konda chola puram - Chennai also has a number of Chola temples in Porur, Padi.

She gave glimpses on the main characteristics of a chola temple :

1. The base structure of the gopuram is always in granite and the super structure in brick and mortar

2. The sanctum is built in a circular base and is termed “Gaja Brishtam” or “Thoongaanai Maadam” – i.e., the shape looks like the back of a sleeping elephant

3. Intricate work of chola pillars and inscriptions in the rear circular base of Gaja Brishtam almost in every temple

Amongst the virtual temple darshan, she covered the Thirumazhisai temples - Sri Othaandeswarar temple and Jagannatha Perumal temple. And the next was the Kovur temple, near Porur.

Kovur Shri Sundareeswarar temple was built in 7th century and the main highlight was that Saint Thyagaraja visited this temple. He even composed 5 krithis called the “Kovur Pancharathnam”. The outer gopuram of this temple has sculptures of incidents from Thyagarajar’s life.

In addition to the above, she also introduced us to the Pallava rock cut temples, built by Mahendra Pallava. Mahendravarma also called as “Vichitra Veeryan” was initially a Jain and got converted in to a saivaite by Appar. He is said to have specialized in constructing rock-cut temples – i.e., unique way of temple architecture without using brick or mortal or granite!

The highlighted temple was the famous “Singaperumal Kovil” – where the temple and the deity is carved out of a small hillock (Like Pillayarpatti, Thiruparankundram etc). The Lord is known as “ Sri Paatalaadri Narasimhar”. Whoever wants to do a pradikshanam around the temple has to actually go around the small hillock as Giri Pradhakshinam. The deity has three eyes (Netri Kann) which is showed during the aarthi.

The next interesting temple was right in the middle of our chaotic city, Koyambedu – The ancient Koyambedu shivan temple which has beautiful sculptures and pillars like rama doing abhiskhem for shiva, Dasabuja Ravananan, Sarbeswarar, Veerabadra etc.,

Lots of interesting Trivia :
1. The River Yamuna’s vahanam is Makara, while Yamuna’s is Tortoise
2. Veerabadra was born out of the sweat of an angry shiva when he heard about Dakshyani’s sacrifice and the one who slayed Daksha.
3. Do check out the Veerabhadra Swamy’s bronze @ The Broze gallery of Madras museum
4. Pallava pillars are very tall and the upper most design is like that of Plaintain flowers/tree

Gopala Krishna Bharathi

A gist of Sriram Venakatakrishnan's talk about Gopala Krishna Bharathi at TAG, chennai.

The talk started off with the maestro Madurai Mani Iyer's rendition of "Eppo Varuvaro" of GKB. GKB was an important link as a composer in tamizh carnatic music. His unique style of compositions had an impact on Papanasam Sivan, Neelakanta Sivan and Subramanya Bharathi.

Born in 1811 in Narimanam (near nagapattinam) in a family of scholars and veena players as Gopala Krishna iyer, becomes Gopalakrishnan Bharati after sometime. He lost both his parents at an early stage and that's why probably it prompted him to pen the masterpiece and close affinity to Lord Shiva - " Thandai tAi irundAl ulagattil umakkinda tAzhvellAm varumO ayyA (petra)" and NC Vasanthakokilam's rendition moved all of us!



 

Royapuram Heritage Walk

When you have a group of 40 enthusiasts looking to learn about the locality in the northern part of Chennai - which has been "heard" more but not "visited" and a person like Sriram who leads it, whose enthusiasm and energy are as engaging a...s his knowledge about Madras - what you get is an outstanding educational tour with lots of fun and learning!

And what is nice about these walking tours is that it brings people together to learn the history of city’s oldest neighborhoods, and more importantly the information and conversation which gives an insight and discovering hidden gems!

Places covered:

Royapuram railway station, the first railway station of south India opened in 1856, and one of the oldest surviving railway station of the India - The railway line which extended from Royapuram to Arcot.

St. Peter's chruch built in in 1799 and consecrated in 1829 by the local boatmen/fishermen residents, and popularly called "Madha kovil" - which has four mada streets around it. Royapuram earned its name through St. Peter, who was referred to as "Rayappar" in Tamil.


Royapuram was also a principal suburb to the Parsi and Anglo Indian community and the next stop was the Parsi cemetery - Anjuman Bagh and the close by Parsi fire temple -Jal Phiroj Clubwala Dar E Meher, where only Parsis and Zoroastrian Iranis are admitted into the sanctum sanctorum. This temple celebrated its centenary in 2010 and it’s a significant moment to take a group picture in this premises.


A brief walking tour followed, getting to know the streets of Royapuram - Maniyakara Chowdry Theruvu, via Lying hospital, to the shrine of Hazarath Sheik Gunangudi Masthan Sahib Dargah. A sufi saint who visualized god as the female entity in his prayer songs and inspired Bharathiyar for his “Kannamma" themes!


Robinson park, a legendary park renamed as Arignar Anna Poonga is the place where DMK was founded.. All in all, an exemplary day!



Sethu Karai

Sethu karai is point from where Ramasethu  was built. Sethu bandana Jaya veera Anjaneyar faces the sea. The most important thing being you should have a darshan (drishti) of Sethu from this point which is auspicious . And to be there on marghazi mrugaseersham, which is today incidentally is even more good!





Avudayar Kovil, Thiruperundurai






A unique temple which one should see in their lifetime, everything about this amazing temple is different! This is built by Manickavasagar and literally a poetry in stone - மாணிக்கவாசகருக்கு ஈசனே குருவாய் வந்து உபதேசித்த தலம்.

மூலவர் : ஆத்மநாதர் and தாயார் : யோகாம்பாள்
மாணிக்கவாசகர் : இத்தலத்தில் சோமாஸ்கந்தர் ஸ்தானத்தில் விளங்குகிறவர் மாணிக்கவாசகர். இவருக்குத்தான் உற்சவம் நடைபெறுகிறது


  • நந்தி, பலி பீடம் இல்லாத சிவன் கோயில், சுவாமி, அம்பாளுக்கு உருவம் கிடையாது.
  •  லிங்கம் கிடையாது. அடிப்பகுதியான ஆவுடை மட்டுமே உண்டு.அம்பாளுக்கு திருப்பாதங்கள் மட்டுமே உண்டு
  •  திருவிளையாடற் புராணத்தில் சிவபெருமான் நரியை பரியாக்கிய கதை நடந்த தலம். மாணிக்க வாசகருக்கு சிவபெருமானே குருவாக வந்து உபதேசம் செய்த சிவதலம் 
  • பிரதோஷம் நடைபெறாத சிவதலம். மாணிக்க வாசகருக்கு மட்டுமே இங்கு திருவிழா, உற்சவர் மாணிக்க வாசகரே.
 
அரூப சிவன் : ரூபம் (வடிவம்), அரூபம் (வடிவம் இல்லாமை), அருவுருவம் (லிங்க வடிவம்) ஆகிய மூன்று வடிவங்களில் அருளும் சிவன் இத்தலத்தில் மூலஸ்தானத்தில் அரூபமாகவும், அருவுருவமாக குருந்தமர (ஸ்தல விருட்சம்) வடிவிலும், உருவமாக மாணிக்கவாசகராகவும் அருளுகிறார். இங்கு ஒரு விசேஷம் என்னவென்றால் குருந்தமரத்தையும் சிவனாகக் கருதுவதால், கார்த்திகை சோமவாரத்தில் இந்த மரத்தின் முன்பாகவே, 108 சங்காபிஷேகம் நடக்கிறது. மூலஸ்தானத்தில் சதுர வடிவ ஆவுடையார் மட்டுமே இருக்கிறது. அதன்மீது ஒரு குவளை சாத்தப்பட்டுள்ளது. குவளை உடலாகவும், அதனுள் இருப்பது ஆத்மாவாகவும் கருதப்படுகிறது. இதன் காரணமாகவும், ஆத்மாக்களை காத்தருள்பவர் என்பதாலும் சுவாமிக்கு "ஆத்மநாதர்' என்று பெயர் ஏற்பட்டது. ஆறு கால பூஜையின் போதும், இவருக்கு 108 மூலிகைகள் கலந்த தைல அபிஷேகம் நடப்பது விசேஷம்.
 
தீபாராதனை தட்டை தொட்டு வணங்க முடியாது : கோயில்களில் தீபாராதனை செய்யும் போது, பக்தர்கள் அதை கண்ணில் ஒற்றிக் கொள்வார்கள். ஆனால், ஆவுடையார் கோயில் மூலவருக்கு, தீபாராதனை செய்யும் தட்டை வெளியில் கொண்டு வருவதில்லை. இங்கு சிவனே ஜோதி வடிவமாக இருக்கிறார். அவரை வணங்குவதே தீபத்தை வணங்கியதற்கு ஒப்பானது தான். எனவே, தீபாராதனையை கண்ணில் ஒற்றிக் கொள்ள வெளியில் கொண்டு வருவதில்லை.
 
முக்கண் தீபம் : ஆவுடையார்கோயில் மூலஸ்தானத்தில் சிவனுக்கு பின்புறத்தில் வெள்ளை, சிவப்பு, பச்சை ஆகிய நிறங்களில் மூன்று தீபங்கள் ஏற்றப்பட்டுள்ளன. வெள்ளை நிறம் சூரியன், சிவப்பு அக்னி, பச்சை நிறம் சந்திரனாக கருதப்படுகின்றன. சுவாமிக்கு இங்கு சிலை இல்லை என்பதால், அவரது மூன்று கண்களை குறிக்கும் விதமாக இந்த தீபங்களை ஏற்றியுள்ளனர். 
 
புழுங்கல் அரிசி நைவேத்யம் சிவன்: இத்தலத்தில் குருவாக இருந்து மாணவர்களுக்கு உபதேசம் செய்தபோது, சீடர்கள் அவருக்கு படைத்த உணவை ஏற்றுக்கொண்டார். அவரிடம் பயின்றவர்கள் வீட்டிலிருந்து புழுங்கல் அரிசி சாதம், கீரை, பாகற்காய் என எளிய பொருட்களை அவருக்கு கொடுத்தனர். அதனை சிவனும் விரும்பி வாங்கி சாப்பிட்டார். இதன் அடிப்படையில், ஆத்மநாதருக்கு புழுங்கல் அரிசி சாதம்தான் நைவேத்யம் செய்யப்படுகிறது. அடுப்பில் இருந்து இறக்கப்பட்ட சாதத்தை அப்படியே சுவாமி சன்னதிக்கு கொண்டு சென்று, படைக்கல்லில் ஆவி பறக்க கொட்டி விடுகின்றனர். அப்போது சன்னதி கதவுகள் சாத்தப்பட்டு, சிறிதுநேரம் கழித்து திறக்கப்படும். சுவாமி அரூப வடிவானவர் என்பதால், அரூபமாகி விடும் ஆவியுடன் நைவேத்யம் படைக்கப்படுகிறது. மூன்றாம்கால (காலை 11 மணி) பூஜையின் போது மட்டும் தேன்குழல், அதிரசம், வடை, பிட்டு, தோசை, பாயாசம் படைக்கப்படுகிறது. பொங்கலன்று வாழை இலை போட்டு, 16 வகை காய்கறிகளுடன், சர்க்கரைப் பொங்கல், வெண்பொங்கல் மற்றும் கரும்பு படைக்கின்றனர்.

அரூப அம்பாள் : தட்சனின் யாகத்திற்கு சிவனை மீறிச் சென்றதற்கு மன்னிப்பு பெறுவதற்காக, அம்பாள் இத் தலத்தில் அரூப வடிவில் தவம் செய்தாள். எனவே, இங்கு அம்பாளுக்கும் விக்ரகம் இல்லை. அவள் தவம் செய்த போது, பதிந்த பாதத்திற்கு மட்டுமே பூஜை நடக்கிறது.

இந்த பாதத்தை பக்தர்கள் தரிசனம் செய்வதற்காக, கண்ணாடியில் பாதம் பிரதிபலிக்கும்படி ஏற்பாடு செய்யப்பட்டுள்ளது. இவளது சன்னதி எப்போதும் அடைத்தே இருக்கும் என்பதால், சன்னதி முன்புள்ள ஜன்னல் துவாரம் வழியாகத்தான் பாதத்தை தரிசிக்க முடியும்.

கிரஹணத்தில் பூஜை : சூரிய, சந்திர கிரகணங்களின்போது கோயில்களின் பூஜை செய்யமாட்டர். ஆனால், ஆவுடையார் கோயிலில் கிரகணநாளிலும் ஆறு கால பூஜை நடக்கிறது. ஆதியந்தம் அல்லாத அருவ வடிவ சிவனுக்கு சிவபூஜை எந்த காரணத்தாலும், தடைபடக்கூடாது என்பதற்காக பூஜை நடக்கிறது.